UNESCO Awardee from Kutch Brings Ramayana Alive in Threads
Ashu Bhen Rabbari and Kutch artisans hold exhibition in New Delhi! (Image Bhawna Malik)
With every stitch, Ashu Bhen Rabbari and her fellow artisans weave not just cloth, but the living memory of a culture
By BHAWNA MALIK
NEW DELHI, August 11, 2025 —She speaks the language of colourful threads. Wrinkles are her armour. Mirror work is her signature. And Gujarat is her home. Welcome to the world of Ashu Bhen Rabbari, a master artisan from Kutch, Gujarat, whose intricate embroidery turns fabric into storytelling canvases.
Through the NGO Kala Raksha, which supports around 800 artisans from Kutch, Rabbari is showcasing her creations in Delhi. “I communicate through my work,” she says with a smile, undeterred by her inability to speak Hindi.
Her collection — from angrakhas and kurtas to embroidered jackets, patchwork coats, potli bags, and mirrorwork shawls — dazzled visitors of all ages with its rich colours, fine detailing, and Indo-Western appeal.
An Artisan Legacy
Kala Raksha’s founder, Ramesh Bhanani, explains, “We began in 1993, working with diverse communities — Soof, Jatt, Rabbari, Jatua — each with embroidery styles named after their heritage. We provide both materials and training. One piece can take 15 days to a month, starting from design to the final stitch.”
The exhibition’s showstoppers were floor-length angrakhas in black, navy blue, and bottle green, while embroidered bags drew younger buyers looking for affordable yet artisanal fashion.
Some embroidery styles are deeply linked to the artisan communities. Jatt embroidery, a cross-stitch style from the Garasia Jatt community, takes about a month to complete. Rabbari embroidery, with its flowing chain stitches, can take up to 20 days or more depending on the design.
The Price of Perfection
The work is not without sacrifice. “Soof embroidery requires handling each thread individually — very intricate and extremely taxing on the eyes,” says Bhanani. Many Soof artisans develop weak eyesight in their forties and must shift to less strenuous techniques like patchwork.
Threads that Tell Stories
Kala Raksha and its artisans have won the UNESCO Excellence Award for their “Narrative Art Form” — fabric panels that depict entire stories. This year’s Delhi exhibition brought the Ramayana to life, covering 40 key events from Lord Rama’s birth to his return from exile. The borders were embroidered with mantras, framing vibrant depictions of Rama, Sita, and pivotal moments from the epic.
“In 2001, to protect our artisans’ vision after years of Soof and patchwork embroidery, we began this narrative style,” recalls Bhanani. “At first, we stitched festivals and wedding rituals. Then we moved to folklore and mythology,” he added.
A single narrative art piece can take up to a year and a half to complete, from story selection and design to embroidery and patchwork. Two or more artisans often work together, with prices ranging from ₹1,300 to ₹1 lakh.
With every stitch, Ashu Bhen Rabbari and her fellow artisans weave not just cloth, but the living memory of a culture — keeping both heritage and livelihood alive in threads of devotion.
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